The xhubleta is a traditional Albanian item of clothing that has been worn by both men and women for centuries. It is a type of vest that is made of wool or other fabrics and is often decorated with intricate embroideries and embellishments. The xhubleta is an important part of Albanian culture and its history is deeply intertwined with the country’s identity and traditions.
In November 2022, the xhubleta was declared as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage and thus protected by UNESCO, according to Culture Minister Elva Margariti.
“The intergovernmental committee for the protection and preservation of the intangible cultural heritage has just unanimously approved the declaration of Jubleta and its teaching as part of the list of intangible cultural heritage under the protection of UNESCO”, said Margariti from the intergovernmental committee for the protection and preservation of intangible cultural heritage held in Morocco.
“A treasure that in the rush of time was in danger of being lost day by day, but we must not allow Jubleta to remain simply a relic of the past, and by being included in this list, it will have the support of not only our institutions, but now also international ones”, says the minister.
She explained that the application was first made in 2019 after realising that the tradition was dying out. Mass emigration and internal migration have depopulated the highland areas where the item is traditionally worn.
The word xhubleta is derived from the Albanian word “xhup,” which means to dress up. In the past, the xhubleta was worn as a garment for special occasions and events such as weddings, baptisms, and religious holidays. It was a way for Albanians to show off their wealth and social status, as the more elaborate and decorated the xhubleta, the higher the social standing of its wearer.
The xhubleta is and is traditionally worn by women in the country’s highlands, with a history dating back 4000 years. It is bell-shaped with accentuation at the back and hangs from the shoulders with two straps. Typically, the skirt features 13-17 strips and is made from wool. Traditionally, unmarried women wore a white one while married women wore black.
Today, the xhubleta is not as commonly worn as it once was, but it still holds a significant place in Albanian culture. It has become more of a symbolic item, representing the country’s history and traditions. Many Albanians still wear the xhubleta during celebrations and festivals, and it has even become a popular souvenir for tourists visiting Albania.
The xhubleta is made by hand, using traditional techniques that have been passed down through generations. The design of the xhubleta varies depending on the region of Albania it comes from, with each area having its own unique style and embroidery patterns. Some xhubletas are made with intricate floral patterns, while others feature geometric shapes and symbols.
One of the most interesting features of the xhubleta is the way it is worn. Traditionally, the xhubleta is worn over a white shirt or blouse, with the bottom of the vest reaching just above the waistline. It is then tucked into a wide belt, often made of leather or fabric, which cinches the waist and gives the wearer a more defined shape. The belt is then secured with a buckle and often adorned with silver or gold buttons and other decorations.
The xhubleta not only looks beautiful but is also functional. In the past, it was worn to keep the wearer warm during cold winter months.
Aside from being a traditional garment, the xhubleta also carries symbolic meaning for many Albanians. It represents the country’s independence and resilience, as Albanians have faced many struggles and hardships throughout their history. The xhubleta is seen as a way to celebrate and honor the resilience of Albanian people, and to showcase their unique cultural heritage.
In recent years, the xhubleta has gained more attention in the fashion industry. Albanian designers are incorporating the traditional design and embroidery of the xhubleta into modern clothing pieces, creating a fusion of traditional and contemporary styles. This has helped to bring more recognition to the xhubleta as a unique and important item of clothing in Albanian culture.
In conclusion, the xhubleta is a beautiful and meaningful item of clothing in Albanian culture. It serves as a symbol of the country’s traditions and history, and represents the resilience and independence of Albanian people. Whether worn on special occasions or as a souvenir, the xhubleta will continue to hold a special place in the hearts of Albanians around the world.
The xhubleta is the second item of Albanian origin to be included on the list after isopolophony, a type of Albanian folk music from the southern part of the country and some parts of the north. Music of this type has no musical instruments and instead includes two, three, or four-part vocals that harmonise and intertwine. Two-part songs are usually sung by women, while four-part is the most complex.
Margariti also announced that another four applications are being prepared for UNESCO, including the traditional dance of the Tropoje region, the transhumance cattle migration tradition, the Epic of Kreshniks, and the work of photographer Marubi.
“We are also preparing the Epic of Kreshniks, the dance of Tropoja, transhumance, the tradition of cattle migration, and Marubi. These are big jobs that cannot be done alone. It needs a lot of experts and a lot of collaborators; it definitely needs a lot of funding,” she said.
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