The city of Berat, located in the south of Albania has existed for almost 2500 years in a valley that lies between what was once the ancient regions of Illyria and Epirus. Seventy kilometres south of the capital Tirana, and a three hour drive from the Greek border at Kakavi, this historic city sits nestled between dramatic mountains and rolling hills. Through the centre of Berat runs the Osum River and the area sits in the shade of the imposing Tomor mountain- a sacred Christian and Bektashi site that is also said to be inhabited by a mythical giant known as Baba Tomor.
Anyone that has visited Berat, knows that this place weaves its very own kind of special magic. As you climb its perilously steep cobbled streets and take in the views of its majestic castle and the valley below, you cannot help but feel enamoured with the sheer beauty and history that emanates from every part of this place.
Clouds swirl around the surrounding mountains, olives, grapes, and other fruit grow in the fertile surrounding countryside, and you can even stumble across fields of fragrant violet saffron, if you stray off the beaten track enough when you explore.
The city is well known for its striking architecture featuring a well-preserved collection of Ottoman houses that are stacked one above the other, on either side of the valley. These structures have earned Berat the name “the town of a thousand windows” and in 2008 it was honoured by becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
One side of the river is called Gorica, the other is Mangalem, and as you head up towards the castle, you enter the oldest part of the city, known as Kalaja. Here the castle has sat presiding over the city below, for over 2000 years.
Burned down by the Romans in 200 B.C, it was rebuilt and added to in the 6th Century and then again in the 13th Century under the rule of Michael I Komnenous Doukas of Epirus, the cousin of the Byzantine emperor at the time. Today, the castle is in a state of disrepair but it still remains a magnificent sight and its citadella still houses a number of residents. Inside its walls, there are ruins of up to 20 churches and a mosque that was for use of the Turkish garrison, under Ottoman rule.
Over the years, Berat has welcomed many famous and infamous characters. One of these was the British poet, writer and painter, Edward Lear (my ancestor and great uncle) who visited the city in October 1848. He painted the city and its inhabitants with his trademark wistful style, and wrote these words about what he found there:
“At length, the celebrated fortress of Berát appeared – dark blue, and diminutive, on a pointed hill. Approaching the capital of Central Albania – a place I had so long desired to see – every step leads into grander scenes. The river Apsus or Beratino is repassed on a stone bridge, and the road winds over the plain on the banks of the wide stream, through a tract of country of the finest character.”
“The city is placed chiefly on the right bank of the river, as also is the Acropolis or castle-hill which rises immediately above the town – the houses and mosques are piled one above another on the steep ledges of rock which slope from the frowning fortress and its stupendous cliffs down to the water’s edge, and constitutes a view that combines Tyrolese or Swiss grandeur with all the pretty etcetera of Turkish architecture.”
“Passing below the cliffs of the gorge, and entering the street of bazaars which runs quite through the town, I was at once struck by the entire change of costume in this district – that of the Tóskidhes. Instead of the purple frock, scarlet vest, black waistcoat, and short kilt of Ghegheria, here all is white, or spruce fluffy grey cloth, with long, many-fluted fustianelles, while the majority, instead of the red fez, wear white caps. Beyond the bazaars, which are extensive and well filled, is a wide open space by the river, whence the view of the dark gorge of the Beratino, the town and castle are truly wondrous… Nothing could be more amusing than the variety of life below. There was the dervish with high white or green caps – the Mohammedan, as well as most of the Christian women, in loose blue feringhis and closely veiled – while infinite numbers of carts drawn by coal-black buffaloes – Greeks, Turks, Albanians, mingled and moved in profusely changing groups.”
Where to stay: I stayed at Hotel Berati which is the most wonderful family run hotel. With traditional decor, stone slab floors and walls, and a delightful breakfast served with a smile, this will be my home each time I visit the city- highly recommended.
Where to eat: casual- Heaven’s Kitchen, evening- Wildor, Onrufi, or Lili Homemade Food.
Where to go: Berat Castle, The National Ethnographic Museum, Gorica Bridge, Onufri Museum, the handmade lace shop a few doors down from Wildor, The King Mosque, Osum Canyon, The Edward Lear Art Gallery, Gimi Kafe, and a selection of wonderful antique shops. Also check out Kantina Alpeta, Kantina Nurellari, the Stone Carver of Berat, and if in season- the saffron fields.
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