Lezhe is a small city, located in the northwest of Albania. Around 90 minutes drive from Tirana (depending on your observance of the speed limit) it is around 30 minutes from the city of Shkodra and a ten minute drive from the shores of Shengjin.
Dating back to at least the 8th century BCE, it was once known as Lissos- a name given to it by Dionysus I of Syracuse. Then came Illyrian rule, followed by its capture by Philip V of Macedon in 211 BCE. It was then recaptured by the Illyrians, and ruled by Gentius who defended it against persistent Roman attacks. Eventually, it fell to the Roman empire for some time and was a part of the province of Epirus Nova, going by the Latinised name of Lissus.
Over the following centuries, it fell into the hands of many different rulers before being chosen by Geroge Castrioti Skanderbeg in 1444 as a place where enemies of the Turks could congregate to plot their defence. It is considered as the site of the League of Lezhe where Skanderbeg united the Albanian princes against the threat of the Ottoman Empire.
Today, the city is home to just over 65,000 people who hail from all over the north of Albania. With large populations of people from Zadrima, Mirdita, and Malesia, it has a Catholic majority (70%) and a Muslim minority (30%).
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDRAxpYGeBA/Dominating the surrounding landscape is the castle of Lezhe that sits atop a mountain, 322 metres above the city. Dating back to Illyrian times, it was reconstructed in 1440 by the Venetians and again after the Ottoman conquest. The castle displays elements of Roman, Byzantine, Illyrian and Ottoman architecture.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvzhyiPnhFK/Now, mainly in ruins, the trek to the summit is worth it for the utterly breathtaking 360 degree views of the mountains, plains, city, and ocean beyond. Bright coloured houses, a river that snakes through the lowlands and the railway with its slightly decrepit train chugging its way from Shkodra to Durres are all visible from the top.
The county of Lezhe and a small village just outside of the city, gave birth to one of the most influential cultural and literary figures of Albanian history. Gjergj Fishta was a teacher, priest, politician, poet and translator. He was the chairman of the commission of the Congress of Monastir which sanctioned the Albanian alphabet. His most famous body of work is the “Lahuta e Malcis” (The Highland Lute), an epic poem written in the Gheg dialect and containing 17,000 lines.
When in Lezhe, there are a couple of must-sees. The castle is one, followed by a trip to the textile workshop of Tereze Gega.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvyVc6nnmbR/You should also take the short drive to one of Albania’s top restaurants and guesthouses, Mrizi i Zanave (make sure to book first), and check out Studio Qeramike Vasili nearby.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpv6GP5AlJm/Visit the memorial tomb of Skanderbeg, and keep your eyes peeled for gjyshe (elderly women) who dress in a completely unique way. You will notice they wear black trousers with a black dress over the top, reaching to the knees. Often they will have hair braided either side of their temples, and then swept underneath a black headscarf- this way of dressing is totally unique to the area.
Follow The Balkanista!
