Kantina Alpeta is a small, family run business located in the rolling hills of Roshnik, not far from Berat. I was lucky enough to be invited for an afternoon of wine tasting and dining, by Ardit Fiska, and this is what I learnt!
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The village of Roshnik sits about 25 minutes outside of the city of Berat. A landscape of fertile, rolling hills, bursting with olive groves and vineyards, this area is exactly what s[rings to mind when you hear the words “winemaking country”.
The story of Kantia Alpeta started back in 1991 after the fall of Communism. The land that once belonged to the brutal dictator, was partitioned and given back to the people. The Fiska family was given 3.4 hectares of land, some of which was already lush with vineyards. The presence of these vines served as an inspiration to Beqir Fiska who having studied at the Agricultural University of Tirana in the 1970s, wanted to put the land to good use. The decision was taken to create a winery on the land, a move that inspired other farmers in the area to do the same.
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By 1995, the winery had started making small quantities of wine and raki made from the grapes that grew on their land. The problem was that Albanian wine wasn’t popular and it was difficult to drum up support from local wine drinkers. During this time, Beqir continued studying and experimenting with the cultivation of different types of grape, in particular, the Pules grape that is native to Albania. This particular grape is an autochthonous grape that grows as a tree vine and has now become one of the most loved and sought after in the region.
As well as the white pules variety, the kantina also makes Merlot (2004, 2005), a Merlot-Cabernet (65% Merlot 35% Cabernet) and a Merlot 2015 Reserve (my favourite).
The kantina also makes raki; normal raki and one that is aged in an oak barrel. Unlike some other producers of raki, Kantina Alpeta uses the same quality and type of grape for their raki as they do for their wine, understanding that quality is not something that can be compromised. If you have an opportunity to try the oak-aged raki, then I suggest you do so as it is deliciously spicy and hot- a real treat for the taste buds!
The Kantina sits on the top of a hill, overlooking acres of farmland below. In the garden of the Fiska family home grow tomato’s and pomegranates, and you can sit in the shade of a large tree whilst you take in the beauty of your surroundings. The garden can also accommodate wine tours and there are places where groups can sit and enjoy wine and food in the shadow of the mountain beyond. This is a really special place and if you are after a totally authentic winery experience, then this is most definitely it. As we sat sipping our wine and raki, I watched horses and donkeys trundle past, and workers stoking the fires that are used as a part of the raki distilling process in the shed beyond.
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They were even kind enough to explain the raki making process for us and I was able to taste some freshly distilled raki, pretty much straight from the pipe.
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The Fiska family also own a restaurant just next to the mosque and I must insist that you do not visit without lining your stomach here. Reminiscent of a sort of tree house, they serve up the most fantastic traditional food you can imagine. We enjoyed goat that had been slowly roasted on a spit, with fresh garden salad, potatoes, and a selection of cheeses- all the fruits of the land that surrounded us.
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The Fiska family hope to be offering accommodation by next summer and this will make it the perfect place to spend a weekend, exploring the countryside, enjoying fine wine and food, and best of all, experiencing the true meaning of Albanian hospitality. If you are ever in Berat, please make time to visit this wonderful family run kantina, and I promise you will not be disappointed!
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