Berat- the City of 1000 Windows, home to some of the best kantina’s in the country, a centre for Albanian Jewish history, and for the first time in 2023, home to the Berat Green Half Marathon.
As a newbie runner with several 10ks, two half marathons under my belt, and a love of Berat, there was no hesitation in me signing up. Organised by the Municipality of Berat, the event consisted of a 10km race and a 21 km race, taking in the sights and sounds of this historic city.
Located 120km from Tirana, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the country, famous for its two neighbourhoods; Mangalem and Gorica and there are numerous Ottoman-era homes that line their slopes.
The history of Berat dates back to the fourth century BC, during the Illyrian times. The city was known as Antipatrea and was under the rule of the king of the Illyrian dynasty. It was later conquered by the Romans in the second century BC and became a part of the Roman Empire. During the Middle Ages, Berat went through periods of invasions and dominance by various kingdoms and empires, including the Byzantines and the Ottomans.
During the Ottoman Empire rule, which lasted for about five centuries, Berat became an important administrative and political centre. The Ottoman Empire established a system of governance in which local leaders, known as beys, had authority over specific regions. Berat was ruled by a powerful bey, Ali Pasha, who lived in the Berat Castle, which was built during the Byzantine period.
Berat’s Ottoman-era architecture is also a highlight of the town, with many of its well-preserved buildings and houses showcasing the intricate decorations and designs typical of that period. The town’s Old Quarter is particularly charming, with its narrow streets, colourful buildings, and antique shops, providing visitors with a glimpse into Berat’s past.
Berat played a significant role in the Albanian National Awakening during the 19th century, which led to Albania’s independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1912. The city was known for its prominent Albanian writers and intellectuals who advocated for independence from Ottoman rule.
Today, Berat is a popular and picturesque tourist destination, with its cobbled streets, traditional houses, and ancient architecture. The city has various landmarks, such as Berat Castle, the Red Mosque, the Ethnographic Museum, and the Holy Trinity Church, among others, all of which bear witness to its rich cultural history.
In 2008, Berat was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site for its well-preserved Ottoman-era architecture, which reflects its unique blend of Eastern and Western cultures. It continues to attract visitors from all over the world who come to explore its history and architecture, and experience the warmth and hospitality of its people.
I have visited the city many times; to the Jewish Museum, to explore fields of saffron, visiting wonderful kantina’s, and of course, following in the footsteps of my great uncle, Edward Lear, who painted various vistas in the region. But visiting with the intention of running some 21km through the city was definitely a first.
The run started on Rruga Antipatrea, an arterial and partially paved road that snakes through the centre of the city. Winding around the curves of the Osumi River, flanked by the historic Ottoman neighbourhoods of Gorica and Mangalem, we continued into the streets of the newer part of the city. Here, enthusiastic yet often slightly confused local residents lined the streets, taking photos, shouting words of encouragement while looking slightly bemused at the pack of strange people running down their high street.
After almost two kilometres, we took a right and started our ascent to the castle. In the race description, the route is labelled as flat, but as I ran up the winding road, watching the hills, river and fields of fruit unfold below me, coupled with a burning feeling in my legs, I began to curse internally. It was a cold day with a haze in the sky and the threat of rain looming on the horizon.
Berat Castle, also known as Kalaja, is a citadel with a significant historical, cultural, and architectural importance in the country’s history. The castle dates back to the 4th century BC and has gone through several transformations and architectural modifications during its lifetime and is still inhabited today. The castle was initially built as a fortress to protect the region from invaders, and it later became the residence of the aristocratic families of Berat. During the Ottoman Empire, the castle served as a military center and a royal residence. Nowadays, the castle is a significant tourist attraction and forms a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As nice as the castle is, we all know that what goes up, must come down and this race was no exception. After raching the summit, the road changed to smooth cobbles, uneven and patchy- not the best surface for running. After waving to a friendly shepherd tending his goats by the side of the road, I started my slippery slide down the slope, swearing in a few languages and waving my arms in frustration. When reaching the bottom, a group of shopkeepers cheered me- I assume after watching me try not to fall for the entire 500m descent.
From here, the course took me down by the Osumi River, a waterway that stretches 161km from Vithkuqi near Korce, until it joins the Seman near Kucova. With its crystal-clear water and impressive waterfalls, Osum River offers an exciting experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers. Visitors can go hiking, rafting or canoeing, and explore the breathtaking natural scenery of the place. The river is also home to many species of fish, which attracts many anglers. Moreover, the Osum River plays an important role in the economy of the region, as it provides irrigation to many agricultural lands.
At this point, the crowds of well-wishers dwindled to just a few children holding out their hands for high fives. Eventually, they disappeared as well, and I was left facing the road alone, save for a few goats and sheep along the way. Out here, among the plains of Berat, with the mountains looming in the distance, the temperature dropped significantly. I felt spots of rain on my head and I hoped the heavens would not open.
As I ran, up the many hills, dodging tractors and confused locals on motorbikes, I breathed in the fresh air and the rolling beauty of the countryside around me. Fields in various stages of cultivation; apples, citrus, and vines- although not yet flowering, hinted at the promise of a lucious harvest- something the region is known for.
My previous visits have allowed me to explore much of the area, including my favourite Kantina Nurellari, home to some of the best wine I have ever tasted, as well as a smart and stylish guesthouse. You can also check out Kantina Alpeta, another favourite which also has accommodation and some of the best spit-roasted goat around.
But I will admit, that by kilometre 17, in the middle of the Berat wilderness in the driving drizzle and running into a cold headwind, I did think of hitching a lift on the back of a passing donkey and cart, or taking a turn and heading off to one of the aforementioned wineries.
However, being as stubborn as I am and catching up with an acquaintance who was also feeling the strain of the hills and cold, I decided to keep on running. As I entered the last 2km with the finish line in sight, the encouragement from spectators filled my ears once again. Coming in joint last place with my acquaintance (we made a pledge at the toughest part of the race to cross the finish line together so neither of us was last), we were welcomed with participation medals and lots of congratulations (and probably a few laughs) from the organisers.
Upon arriving back at my hotel, the very friendly and comfortable Hotel Orestiada (recommended if you want to stay in the city), I was the subject of much attention from a group of very friendly ladies who were all teachers at the local school. After much photo taking with them and their various family members, it was time to head back to Tirana.
Such initiatives are great for Albania and I think cities like Shkodra, Gjirokaster, and Vlora could all consider doing similar. Getting people together to enjoy the hospitality and sights of Albania, combined with the positivity of physical exercise, is great exposure for the country and a good example of sustainable and intelligent tourism.
Kudos for the organisation, thankyou Berat, and hopefully see you for the second edition next year!
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