Society - Travel

Voskopoje and the Wolf Trail Run

Yesterday I attended the Voskapoje Wolf Run, organised by Trail Running Albania. I was supposed to partake in the 10km trail run but suffering an injured knee, I decided it was best to sit this one out.

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Located in and around the village of Voskapoje, the Wolf Trail consists of three races; a 5km, a 10km, and a half marathon through the trails of the surrounding countryside. With elevation gains reaching 1003m in the half marathon, it was a pretty tough one that passed along old ski slopes, views of Ostrovice Mountain, pine forests and smaller neighbouring villages.

The race was sponsored by a range of local businesses and organisations, but it was World Visions “Tungjajteta…jete” project that really interested me.

Did you know that 70,000 children in Albania between the ages of two and 17 suffer from a disability? Did you also know that 92% of them do not receive the basic services that they need? World Vision and Tungjatjeta…jete” is trying to bridge that gap. But it is not just a matter of there being enough services for these children to access, it is a matter of accessibility. Children that live in some of the remote parts of Albania are often restricted from visiting centres that offer supportive services, so Tungjatjeta…Jete goes to them. They are also working to help those who have not yet been diagnosed, as only around 4% are ever assessed in terms of possible disabilities.

Here is a quote from their website:

“Through integrated work with our Child Protection Program, Education Program, as well as working with local and national partners, and institutions, we aim to create an integrated network of services for these children within school facilities and near the specialist centres in the community. Thanks to that, children with disabilities will be able to receive the support from supportive teachers, physicians, psychologists, social workers, speech therapists and therapists, benefiting from inclusive education and training for independent living in the community by being involved with friends.”

To help support the 70,000 plus Albanian children who are living with disability and not receiving adequate support or assistance, you can find out more here.

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Voskopoje itself is a beautiful area, situated 21km from the city of Korca. The journey there took us through vast plains full of sheep, cows, and donkeys, as well as roadside stalls buckling under the weight of onions and apples. The land here lies flat for miles but is encircled by vast mountains, grey and green in colour for now, but pure white during the winter months. As we started our climb up into the hills that surround Voskop, we were treated to the most magnificent display of orange, yellow, green, and red autumnal foliage, that seemed every brighter in hue in the dying hours of the afternoon light.

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Voskopoje itself is like something off a Christmas card; cobbled streets, stone houses and chalets, and rolling hills peppered with pines that make way for vast sloping mountains, just perfect for skiing. You could almost picture this place covered in a blanket of snow- the perfect place to spend the festive period.

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But Voskopoje has a whole lot more to it than just pretty views and sights. As I started to read about it, I discovered it had a truly fascinating history. Regarded as a pearl of the Albanian landscape, its history can be traced right back to the 14thCentury. For many centuries the area was a preposterous centre within both Albania and the Balkans, for culture, art, and trade.

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The centre of Voskopoje was supposedly funded in 1330 by a mixed Vlachswith and Albanian community. The Church of Saint Friday was the first building to be constructed by these settlers and from there, residential areas sprung up around it. The rich and diverse architecture of the settlement was then contributed to by David Selenica, the Zografi brothers from Korce, and Konstandid Lermonaku- all of whose works have survived war, time, and human ignorance, to remain as a part of the history of old Voskapoje.

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The area was also an important centre for the development of culture, Byzantine art, and culture as it granted permission by the Ottoman Empire to develop it into a city. As a result, 24 Byzantine style churches and a monastery were built, complete with painted frescoes and arches, some of which remain there to this day. The new city was also home to an Academy which educated thousands of students over its years of operations. Voskopoje is also known for being home to the first printing press in the region which helped to spread the word of important philosophers and scholars around the area.

 

Over the years, many languages have been spoken in Voskopoje including Aromanian, Greek, and Albanian, with Albanian being spoken almost exclusively today.

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There are an estimated 200,000 Aromanians in Albania at present, some of which speak the language, some of which don’t. It is interesting to note that Voskopoje was an important cultural and trade centre for Aromanians, and at one time it could have been home to over 70,000 inhabitants.

 

Where I stayed: 7Seven Hotel, Korce. A lovely boutique hotel in the centre of the city. Spacious, clean, minimal rooms with comfy beds and really fashionable decor- reasonably priced at around EUR 40 a night depending on the room.

Where we ate: Taverna Vasili. We were a table of 7 and enjoyed starters, salads, cheese, grilled meat platters including lamb, steak, pork, chicken, two litres of wine, water, beer, spirits, and soft drinks- grand total of EUR 8 per head. Highly recommended!

 

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