After a night in Korce, we drove through the countryside to Pogradec I have waxed lyrical about the beauty of the landscapes at this time of year, but word’s really cannot do it true justice.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BotsiM5h3UB/?taken-by=thebalkanista
The last time I visited Lake Ohrid and Porgradec was in March when the land was barren and grey. Although still stunningly beautiful, it was devoid of colour except for the blue of the sky and the lake, and of course the purple an grey, snowcapped mountains beyond. Now the scenery had come alive- bright oranges and yellows, deep reds, and browns, burgundy’s, and greens spill across the hills like an abstract painting. Bursts of coloured foliage and fauna were dotted across every hillside and the dramatic contrast between these shades and the vibrant blue of the sky and water was something truly breathtaking.
Pogradec sits on the shore of the tectonic Lake Ohrid, the deepest lake in the Balkans (285m), at around 4 million years old, it is under UNESCO protection due to its rich and diverse natural and historic value. Home to 17 species of aquatic animals, 70% of which are only found there, it is particularly well known for speckled trout, or ‘koran’, in the Albanian language.
The city of Pogradec was first settled in the Neolithic period before it was settled by the Illyrian Desaret and Enkelejd clans who built its castle that sits 870m above sea level. Today it is a popular holiday resort in the summer and is famed for its food and its Perla raki.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BotpS8pB_FK/?taken-by=thebalkanista
As we drove down the mountain, with the city laid out below us, we stopped at a roadside vendor who had the most incredible selection of pumpkins, squash, and gourds on display. Fat orange pumpkins, peculiarly shaped marrows, strings of dried chilis, and the most incredibly bright and multi-coloured gourds imaginable.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BougjUdhAhT/?taken-by=thebalkanista
In colours of red, orange, green and white, I had never come across such things before- according to the farmer they are the result of cross-pollination from bees. We stocked up on goodies, as well as a couple of kilos of chestnuts, and headed on our way.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BougrZOhzUG/?taken-by=thebalkanista
We stayed at the Chill Out Hostel where we had an apartment each, a welcome drink, a nightcap (raki), and breakfast all included in the price. The hosts were super friendly, the rooms were spacious and comfortable, and whilst it is not 5* luxury, I was more than happy to spend the night there. If you are travelling on a budget or looking for somewhere comfy where you could self-cater if needed, I highly recommend this place. The young man who worked there even took us personally to a local restaurant that he recommended, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.
The Fresh Fish Grill is located on the ‘main strip’of Pogradec- whilst unassuming and ‘rural’ looking from the outside, when you step inside it is a whole other world. We were greeted by a smiling and enthusiastic water who showed us to a table and refreshed us with wine and water. We wanted to taste Koran and he brought us a tray of the day’s catch, so we could select the fish we wanted. We then told him to bring it with whatever accompaniments he felt were best, and boy did he not let us down.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BouS50tBSgn/?taken-by=thebalkanista
We dined on grilled cheese, garlic dips, cabbage, olives, salad, tomatoes with chilli, fresh potatoes, wonderful homemade wine, and the most beautifully cooked Koran. It was probably one of the best meals I have had in Albania and you could taste the freshness in every single mouthful. If you are passing Pogradec, please stop and visit because everything from the antiques that adorned the walls, to the friendly staff, and the incredible food, is most definitely worth a visit.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bov7tc2hToK/?taken-by=thebalkanista
The next morning, we enjoyed a stroll along the beach and a coffee by the lake before stopping at the village of Tushemisht on the way, a small place with picturesque backstreets, cobbled roads, and canals that crisscrossed their way between the houses. Finding the house that was the location for the famous Albanian film ‘Zonja nga Qyteti’. I purchased some local pottery before we got in the car and headed on our way.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BowI1-uBZSm/?taken-by=thebalkanista
As we left Albania and stopped at the customs desk, we obviously looked suspicious because after answering 100 questions from the Macedonian immigration officer, our car was searched. The woman asked me and my boyfriend “anything to declare?” to which I replied “Yes, I would like to declare some pumpkins” before she let us go on our way.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BowWFOmhZ7W/?taken-by=thebalkanista
Our first stop was the Monastery of Saint Naum which is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the whole of Macedonia. Established by the Bulgarian Empire in 905 AD by St Naum of Ohrid, he is also buried within the church itself. As of the 16thCentury, the monastery was used as a Greek School, as well as it belonging to Albania between 1912 and 1925 when King Zog ceded it to Yugoslavia as a result of goodwill negotiations.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoyBRINBnjS/?taken-by=thebalkanista
As well as housing a monastery, a church, and several restaurants, the area is home to St Naum Springs that you can visit as a part of a short boat ride. The water here is impossibly clear and blue and is fed into by nearby Lake Prespa.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bowc_-ZBnEi/?taken-by=thebalkanista
After stopping for lunch, exploring the grounds of the church, almost crashing a wedding, and saying hello to some peacocks, we piled back in the car and drove onwards towards Ohrid.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoyMDPkh_Nl/?taken-by=thebalkanista
Mother was in awe of the countryside and we all agreed that the land here looks very different to Albania, despite borders being debatable and there being such a short distance between the two.
Arriving in Ohrid, we stopped for a coffee in a smokey coffee shop before checking into our hotel– a quirky pace full of old musical instruments, abstract art, and the sort of interiors I have come to expect from Balkan hotels.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoxClfshaAH/?taken-by=thebalkanista
After freshening up, it was time to meet some of my boyfriend’s family, Macedonian Albanians on his father’s side.
As we arrived at their house on the outskirts of Ohrid, I was surprised to see them all waiting outside. I later learnt that it is a tradition for the family to meet guests whilst stood outside the house, before bringing them inside. We were welcomed with Macedonian brandy, nibbles, and soft drinks, and I had the pleasure of meeting his cousins, their parents, and grandparents also. We were welcomed with the most wonderful Albanian hospitality which far surpasses anything that Western, or even other Southern Europeans can compete with. It was a really wonderful experience to be invited into their home and treated with such kindness and respect.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoywqzfhBLV/?taken-by=thebalkanista
The next morning after a long lie in (I blame the Macedonian brandy and the fact you can never have an empty glass in an Albanian household) we went for a stroll and a coffee around the centre of Ohrid. It is a lovely place and the lake is beautiful but personally, I prefer Tirana. The historic quarters of Ohrid City are lovely but the bits that connect it all are run-down and grey- missing the soul that Albania has.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Boyw-jPBdj4/?taken-by=thebalkanista
We then ventured up the side of a mountain to the Church of St John at Kaneo- a Macedonian Orthodox church, dedicated to John of Patmos the ‘writer of revelation’ (who some say is the same as John the Apostle). The church is estimated to have been built prior to 1447 with archaeologists believing that it was constructed before the rise of the Ottoman empire in the 13thCentury. We had to climb through overgrowth and trees, scale almost sheer drops, and navigate a rocky path to get there, but the view was more than worth it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BowfOKYhEbM/?taken-by=thebalkanista
The drive back to Tirana was a quiet one as after 3 days, 3 cities, and two countries, we were all rather exhausted. It was interesting to do this trip in both the summer and the autumn and to note the difference in atmosphere, scenery, and opportunities for exploration.
Follow The Balkanista!
