I love fashion and out of all the places I have lived, the Albanian style has interested me the most. I like to sit and drink coffee in Blloku and watch the beautiful people pass by- women in bright colours, loose-fitting shifts, embellished tees, and stylish shoes, and men that are bearded, well put together and perfectly coiffed. I would say that over the last 7 months, the way that Albanian women dress has directly impacted my fashion choices- I have become brighter, bolder, and more experimental with shapes and patterns, and of course, having a ball gown made to measure in under two weeks is something that is possible now, that was not before.
As a child and teenager, I read Vogue and Harpers Bazaar- mesmerised by the glossy pages, flawless models, and the divine haute couture that graced their pages. As an adult, my style has changed dramatically over the years from my punk-influenced youth to my current laid back, brightly coloured, bohemian chic vibe. I like to mix designer pieces with things I find on the markets- LC Waikiki with Moschino, Armani with Primark- you get the idea.
Living Albania, I often see the adverts for Bordo magazine, and many times I have sat in a Bistro thumbing through the pages- not understanding a word, but enjoying the beautifully styled images within. Wanting to know more about Albanian fashion and how one goes about putting together an Albanian fashion bible in a country that is such a social paradox, I reached out to Ilda Lumani, journalist, co-founder and director of the countries most prominent lifestyle tome.
We met in the Rogner Hotel on a blisteringly hot June day yet Ilda still managed to look effortlessly chic. In a full pleated skirt, red block heels, and a sparkling embellished t-shirt, her hair seemed immune to the humidity of the midday heat, and her face appeared bare except for a slick of matte red lipstick.
She started by telling me the story of Bordo- after being a highly successful journalist with a career spanning 15 years, TV, and the countries major print publications, she was at the top of her game. Always someone with a keen eye for fashion, her and her friend, the accomplished designer Enada At’ Nikolla decided to set up a magazine. At the time there was really nothing like it in Albania and spotting a gap in the market for a classy, informative, and beautifully designed bible of fashion and culture, the two women came together to make their dream a reality.
Produced every two months, Bordo is a magazine with a big focus on the seasons. Each issue is designed to offer suggestions, ideas, and solutions to fashion, beauty, travel, events, and cultural needs depending on the time of year. Ilda tells me that they don’t advertise fur, they use minimal airbrushing only (and certainly don’t make models appear skinnier), and they would never use an unhealthy looking model in the magazine. This is refreshing to hear as we discuss the effects of ‘Kardashianism” and young women mutilating themselves to aspire to an unrealistic standard of beauty. Ilda is aware that their magazine provides inspiration to many, and she also knows that with this comes the responsibility to create a balance between whimsical beauty, art, and luxury, and the realities of being an Albanian woman in 2018.
I realise that the topic of social disparity is a difficult one, but Ilda answers my questions honestly and with grace. She explains that in the magazine, they aim to use a mix of high-end items and high-street options meaning that the looks within are accessible to all. It seems fair to say that just because a country suffers from poverty and social issues, doesn’t mean that you can’t provide beautiful things for its people to look at, aspire to, and even copy within their own means.
Ilda believes that what she does is create art, and I would agree. She works with extremely talented local photographers such as Geljant Kaleci, Edvina Meta, and Renuar Locaj who have a mutual understanding of the type of images that Bordo wants. These images are flawless, well composed, and in my opinion, suitable to grace the pages of any international fashion magazine.
When I ask Ilda about her personal style and influences, she is quick to say that she doesn’t have one particular influence and her style is a bit of all, combined to create her own individual look. She admires the work of Dior and Armani – classic lines, chic designs, and subtle twists of modernity define these artists, and in turn, her approach to fashion. When it comes to local influences, she believes that singers such as Jonida Maliqi and Eranda Libohova, as well as icons of communist times such as Parashqevi Simaku and the more modern Rajmonda Bulku have all played a part in creating this very special kind of Balkan-chic.
She describes the Albanian look as full of colour, femininity and interesting shapes- everything is well coordinated, and even if it clashes, it does so in an aesthetically pleasing way. The look is put together and modern, yet draws distinct influences from Albania’s cultural heritage and art. She tells me that Albanians love colour- from the streets of Tirana to the traditional clothes worn centuries ago- art, colour and expression is a big thing and this is reflected in the way people dress today. Pushing boundaries and experimenting is also a the de rjgueur and she believes this again, is linked to the constrictive and volatile past of the country.
When pressed, she names her Bordo co-founder Enada At’ Nikolla as one of the leading fashion designers in the country. Waxing lyrical about the colourfull uniqueness of her designs and the way that she faithfully immortalises the very soul of the wearer within the threads of each garment, Ilda believes that not many can come close to her work. She also names Ardi Asilani for his spectacularly dramatic creations and Mirela Nurce for her designs that combine traditional folk influences with classic lines and modern techniques.
Finishing our coffee, I asked her what her pet hates are when it comes to fashion “terrible fabrics” came the reply. “You can have the most beautiful garment, but if it is made from cheap or poor quality fabric, you ruin what could be something beautiful” she adds. I then asked her what is the biggest trend for summer 2018; “COLOUR!” she replies “jewel tones, rainbow colours, lots and lots of colour” she says exuberantly.
Well, that is me bang on trend then! Phew.
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