We awoke on Thursday to the dulcet sounds of drilling and the sunlight streaming through the windows. We packed up our things, said goodbye to our lovely hosts at Epirus Hotel, and headed off for the bright lights of the city. It took us about two hours to navigate our way out of Sarande and onto the road to Tepelene, due in part to sleepy heads and a very misleading GRPS, we ended up in Devline halfway up a mountain on a dirt-track at one point, before realising that this probably wasn’t the safest route. Then, locating the river that we followed from the Blue Eye, we found ourselves on the right track.
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I had come across a guest house and restaurant on Instagram called Lord Byron Tepelene, and feeling rather peckish, we decided to stop there for a late lunch. By this point the rain had set in big time and the thunder was growling above us as we made our way through the valley. After a few wrong turns, we arrived at the guest house and were warmly welcomed by the family that run it. Originally from Tirana and after running a restaurant there for years, they decided to pack it all in and set up in Tepelene. Big fans of Lord Byron, the restaurant area is full of pictures of him, portraits and other artefacts relating to his stay.
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This place felt incredibly homey- more like a living room than a business. With soft seats, a piano in one corner, and incredible views across the river and valley, it was a delightful place to spend a few hours. We were fed three courses of deliciousness with all of the ingredients coming from their garden and surrounding land. Fresh vegetables, lamb, cheese made on site- the food was exactly what I was looking for- warming, delicious and fresh.
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Our hosts then came to join us and we enjoyed some delicious local wine and many conversations about Lord Byron, Edward Lear, Tirana and Tepelena, and our feelings on Albania. After finishing up, I was kindly presented with a selection of homemade jams and preserves (fig, pear, and one that I haven’t worked out yet) and some almonds, again grown on the property. So far, my personal favourite is the fig jam- not only is it delicious with bread, but it also goes well with cheese.
We were tempted to stay the night so we could enjoy the hospitality of our new friends, but remembering the realities that Friday brings, we continued on our way.
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We headed through the thundery mountains and took a turn to the left, heading towards Berat. Despite the poor weather and the setting sun, I was determined to get a photo of the beautiful old houses that sit on the slopes of the mountains, and the two bridges that straddle the Osum river.
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As we drove into the city, the rains of the day had resulted in quite extensive flooding- peoples houses were being lapped by dirty water and shops had sandbags outside to try to stem the flow. We managed to pass through the rainwater and pulled up just past the centre.
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With the sun setting behind the mountains, I managed to snap some truly beautiful (if I say so myself) pictures of the view that Mr Lear had sketched a century and a half before. With the light dwindling fast and the storm clouds gathering again, we hopped back in the car and continued towards Tirana, vowing to come back another day to explore Berat properly.
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In four days we covered 820km and visited some incredible places. From idyllic beaches to treacherous mountain passes, Roman ruins, and majestic castles and many more besides, it was a wonderful and interesting trip. Reluctant to return to the noise and smog of Tirana, I can’t help but think “where shall I go next?”
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