Almost 40 years ago, I was holidaying in Corfu and saw distant twinkling lights across the sea at night On asking a local I was told that the lights were Albania but that I wouldn’t want to go there and it was not a place to go to on holiday. On 19th April 2018, I flew to Tirana for my 74th birthday weekend, courtesy of The Balkanista, my daughter. As my plane approached the airport, I saw once more the twinkling lights that had fascinated me so long ago.
After a joyful reunion with Alice, we were driven to the city and sleep. The following morning, daylight revealed colourful Tirana and the surrounding majestic mountains. For the following action-packed three days, I experienced the beauty and friendliness of a land of contrasts and history. To go into detail would take forever so here are some of my most enduring memories.
- The streets of Tirana, lined with beautiful trees, the cafes, and the smell of coffee everywhere!
- The parks and open spaces for people to relax and enjoy.
- Yellow taxis everywhere.
- The interesting architecture with modern buildings alongside remnants of the communist era and the murals and pinks and oranges of many of the buildings.
- A surprise encounter with a Turkish toilet!
- The pyramid with its graffiti, the Berlin Wall monument alongside one of the hundreds of bunkers, the gleaming ultra-modern shopping mall.
- Skanderberg Square with the mosque and churches side by side.
- The smell of the new bazaar with its dried fruit, olives, fruit and much more.
- My first taste of raw fish at Fishland. In fact, I was so impressed by the freshness of all the food served up in cafes and restaurants.
- The artificial lake on a Sunday afternoon crowded with families enjoying themselves.
- The miles of unspoilt flat land between the city and the mountains.
- Bunkart, the amazing underground bunker hidden by trees and earth.
- The silence on the cable car and the fantastic views that easily dispelled my fear of heights!
- The fresh air and the incredible view from the top of Dajti.
- The perilously winding roads up to the summit of Dajti, framed with shady trees and green foliage.
- The view from my balcony at the Hotel Panorama in Kruje and being able to hear the mosque, as well as goats bleating, chickens clucking, and cows mooing.
- The walk through the New Bazaar in Kruje with its antiques and crafts, up the steep hill to the castle and the lamb and rice dessert (kabuni) we ate in the restaurant.
- The sunset on the way down.
- Walking the red carpet at the Viennese Ball, the food, Strauss, and the interesting people I met.
- And last but definitely not least, the wonderful friendliness of all the Albanian people I met.
After only 3.5 days in Albania, I can honestly say that it was a wonderful experience and I can’t wait to return and spend more time there.
Mama Balkanista
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