To celebrate six months of being in Albania, I decided to put together some of the more poignant photographs I have taken on my travels. I have taken hundreds of pictures since I have been here, but these are the ones that really mean something to me and that I think reflect what life is really like here.
Men in Pogradec
As you walk down the lake-front area in Pogradec, you will find many elderly men sat on any available bench or surface playing dominoes or backgammon. The weather was about 5 degrees when this picture was taken and it has been raining on and off all day meaning that their love of socialising and playing their game is completely unaffected by the elements.
Te Dua, Tirana
There is no particularly poignant message with this photograph, but it just made me smile. It was a cold, grey, miserable, awful day in late February and seeing this happy message straddling the sidewalk made me stop to photograph it. The fact that everyone that passed me as I took the picture, was smiling as well made it even nicer.
The Walking Violinist, Tirana
This old chap walks around the Blloku area day in, day out and whatever the weather, playing interesting melodies on his fiddle. Seemingly following no particular tune or structure, I think he improvises on the spot. Nonetheless, the tunes have a distinctly Albanian sound and being a former violin player, it makes me happy to hear and see him.
The Empty Playground, Bunkart 1
Bunkart 1 is the recently opened underground network of tunnels and bunkers that were built by Enver Hoxha during the oppressive communist regime. This is a long lost and forgotten playground that sits outside the entrance to the extensive underground fortress. The peeling paint on the benches and the playground rides that were presumably only for the children of the chosen few is eerie and sad.
Civil Society Forum, Tirana
This image is poignant for me as it shows the very first Civil Society Forum for LGBT rights, held at the Palace of Assembly in Tirana. It was organised by a local activist- Arber Kodra, and included The American Ambassador and leading governmental, social, and political figures from every political party in the country. This was a first for Albania and whilst there is still a lot to be done, it marks a great step forward in the fight for equality.
Strip Club Art, Tirana
It is no secret that Tirana is home to many strip clubs- they are advertised on billboards and taxis, and now as well, it seems the walls of the city. I am used to seeing political and social messages, or even works of art scrawled on the walls of urban spaces, so seeing this advert for another strip club was a bit of a surprise. To me, this blase attitude reflects the issues the country faces in regards to prostitution, human trafficking, and the exploitation of women.
Woman Weaving, Kruje
As I walked through the bazaar in Kruje, I saw this woman hard at work, practising a traditional skill that is sadly dying out. But I was surprised to see that instead of creating athe traditional geometric patterns with brightly coloured wools, she was weaving the American flag. No doubt, her reason behind this was to cater for the scores of tourists that visit the town every year, but I couldn’t help but think it could also represent the strange (to me) an overbearing presence of Americans in Albania. They are everywhere- Donald Lu is rumoued to be the most powerful man in the country, and Peace Corps and the State Department have a big role to play- I find their interest in this tiny country rather suspicious, therefore this image interested me on a couple of different levels.
Fishing Boats, Pogradec
I fell in love with Pogradec, but more specifically with Lake Ohrid. It is one of the most beautiful and hauntingly tranquil places that I have ever visited and I found its icy blue, aquamarine waters both hypnotising and peaceful. I could stare at it for days, but instead I have this image.
The Smiling Vendor, Tirana
I love the New Bazaar in Tirana- alive with colour, noise, smells, sights and people I enjoy wandering around and sipping coffee at one of its many cafes. This chap is always happy and pleased to see me and I usually stop to pick up some nuts or dried fruit from him. Whilst he is always cheery and smiling, I cannot help but wonder that at his age, he must have had a pretty hard life and experienced some awful things. This intrigues me a lot.
The Solitary Seat, Bunkart
At the entrance to the Bunkart 1 site, this solitary seat sits next to the peeling paint and crumbling walls of a communist-era building. completely forgotten and left to rot I find it both beautiful and poignant at the same time.
Music Man, Kruje
This man was more than happy to be sat in the last breaths of the setting sun, just before the gates of Kruje Castle. He sat there strumming away before standing up and dancing, tapping his feet in perfect rythym to the beat. Whilst I am sure he attracts a lot of interest from tourists, I cannot help but think he would be sat there anyway, playing away, even without an audience.
Forgotten Faces, Bunkart 2
Having visited both Bunkart museums, I found Bunkart 2, the smaller one, to be the most impactful. These are faces of victims of the regime- the true amount of those that lost their lives is a matter of great debate. Many names hang from the ceiling on sheets in the bowels of the bunker, a reminder of those that were victims of brutality, politically motivated violence, victims of the Sigurimi, people who disappeared, those who were killed trying to escape, and of course, the many that died from starvation or accidents whilst building the thousands of bunkers and tunnels that cover the country. I left the place in tears and in need of a stiff drink.
Fish for Sale, Elbasan
On our way back from Pogradec, we stopped at this gas station for snacks. I looked out of the window and was suprised to see a tank full of fish for sale. My boyfriend explained that these were not desinted for an aquarium, but rather then dinner plate (!!) but they were so beautiful with their iridescent scales, that I had to take a photo.
Like a Rose in the Concrete, Tirana
I find Tirana fascinatinly beautiful, but mainly not in the conventional sense. I love these crumbling buildings, the brightly colured walls, and the relentless blue of the sky beyond. I love to find beauty in unexpected places, and this is a prime example.
Apathetic Feelings , Tirana
“These are the things we are fighting for” are the words emblazzoned acorss several apartment blocks, just near the Ring Centre in Tirana. A message of hope and motivation, but is it now falling on deaf ears? The Albanians have always been resilient and powerful in the face of adversity, but speaking to some of my Albanian freinds now, they are concerned with the apathetic attitude of most of the population.
The Blloku Dichotomy, Tirana
I took this photograph between two of Blloku’s main streets. With it boulevards full of restaurants and cocktail bars, designer boutiques, and truffle emporiums, I felt that this was such a stark contrast to the reality that is presented in this area. What was once the playground of the communist elite, has been taken back by the people, but at what cost? And what happens to those that are left behind?
