Continuing on the food theme, I thought I would put together a list of my recommendations for good restaurants in Tirana. You are literally spoilt for choice with hundreds of cafes, bistros, restaurants, and fine dining establishments in every corner of the city. I have explored quite a few of them during my six months here, and these are five of my favourites in no particular order.

Oda

Tucked away in a little side street near the New Bazaar, Oda is a traditional Albanian restaurant that is packed to the rafters with character. Decked out with authentic furniture, photographs, ornaments, and arts and crafts, it really feels like you have taken a step or two back in time. I went with my mother recently and what struck us was the friendly atmosphere and the freshness of the food. You can choose to sit in the dining room, the small terrace, or the cosy living room-type set up with its small benches and round tables. We ordered a thigh of lamb, a salad, fergese (baked peppers with cheese), spece te mbushur me preime (eggplant stuffed with vegetables) and spece te mbushur me oriz (peppers stuffed with rice). The bread that accompanied it was like a spongy, light, savoury cake and the carafe of red wine was sweet and strong- just how I like it! Whilst this place is designed predominantly for tourists, the food is of such a great quality that I would happily eat there regularly. It is run by a team of women (even the cooks) and there are a couple of cute kitties that stroll around mewing hopefully. The only drawback is the Turkish-style toilets which may be a bit off-putting for those not accustomed to them!

Serenata Korcare

If you are after delicious, traditional food at local prices then Serenata Korcare is worth a visit. A short walk from Ring Centre, it is a large venue that also provides live entertainment in the form of musicians and singers. The place is often packed so if you are planning to go at the weekend, it is definitely worth booking a place beforehand. Not only is the food fresh, plentiful, and totally delicious, but you can get up and get involved with some traditional Albanian dancing afterwards, to help you burn off some of the calories! My favourite dish there is tave me spinaq e veze (spinach baked with eggs) and the range of fresh sausages that they have on offer. Delicious!

Fishland

Tirana is full of fish restaurants and I have been lucky enough to have been to a large percentage of them, but this one remains my favourite. Tucked away near Myslym Shyri, it is off the beaten track and offers a little oasis of calm in the middle of the city. With nice decor, friendly staff and a great wine list, it ticks quite a few boxes for me. They totally excel themselves when it comes to seafood and whether you are after a crudo platter, baked calamari, or a simple grilled local fish, then Fishland are top of their game (in my opinion).

Pavarotti

Pizza is my kryptonite and it is also the reason why I struggle to get below a size 12/14. But I don’t care because there is nothing I love more than a mouthful of cheesy, doughy goodness and Pavarotti is one of the best. I say “one of” because there appears to be a bit of a battle between this place and one other, but having only been to Pavarotti, I can only speak for them. The pizza is utterly divine- dough how it should be, proper mozzarella, and authentic Italian toppings- no cheap imitations here. Having visited with an Italian who claims it is as good in Pavarotti as it is in Italy, I am quite sure that this means it is something rather special. They also had a great wine selection, including Gavi di Gavi which is one of my favourites.

Estia

Estia has to be one of, if not the best fine-dining restaurant in Tirana. Set back from the road in a beautiful villa, it offers dining in various different rooms including a greenhouse type area. The waiters are exceptionally attentive and professional, the wine list is a connoisseur’s wet dream, and the food is to die for. It doesn’t come cheap by Albanian standards but if you compare the quality of the food and the prices to an equivalent in say Italy or France, at Estia you are paying just a fraction of the price. The presentation is everything at Estia and whilst the portion sizes are small, they are just the right size to satiate an appetite without overeating. Only the finest ingredients are used and the interesting combinations of flavours used are unlike anything else you will find in Tirana. They also have the best creme brulee that I have ever tasted. If you have a special occasion or are just looking for somewhere a little bit special, I definitely recommend this place.

These are just five of my favourite restaurants. I have based this list on visiting more than once, and I have tried to include different price points and types of dining. I have a feeling this list will evolve and change over the months, so if you have any suggestions of interesting places to try, be sure to let me know!