So, after over a year without a holiday or a day off (I even work on Christmas, New Year’s Day and my birthday), I am finally switching on my ‘Out of Office’ message on my email account and heading off for some much needed R&R.
I have booked a small apartment on the shore of Lake Ohrid, just outside the city of Pogradec. Wooed by images of tranquil waters, beautiful snowy mountains, and the promise of fresh air and a break from city life, I am excited, to say the least.
Lake Ohrid straddles the border between Albania and Macedonia and the city of Pogradec sits on the Albanian side, surrounded by hills to the south and the west, and water to the east and the north. A couple of hours drive from Tirana, it was once a popular resort town during the communist era and was the favourite summer escape for the ex-dictator, Enver Hoxha who has a large summer residence on the shores of the lake.
The history of the area stretches back for millennia and the earliest traces of human life in Pogradec belong to the Early Neolithic period at around 8600 cal. B.P. Over the thousands of years that followed, settlements sprung up all over the area and the area near Lychnidus (Ohrid) was inhabited by the Illyrian tribe of the Enchelli. The vicinity was also home to the Illyrian Kingdom during the 4th and 5th Century, led by King Bardylis and his son Cleitus. Then, during the Roman period, the area served as an important link between the Adriatic coast and the inner Balkan lands and the Via Egnatia ran alongside the Lake, connecting the Adriatic port of Dyrrachium (Durres) with Byzantium. During the 7th Century, the area was colonised by a Slavic tribe that was known as the Berziti and then between the 8th and 14the century, Pogradec and the surrounding area was captured by medieval forces from states such as Bulgaria, Byzantine, and Serbia, as well as by noble Albanian families such as Gropa and Balsa. In the middle of the 15th Century, the area fell under the rule of the Skanderberg state, until he died in 1468 when it was swiftly invaded and conquered by the Ottomans who retained rule until independence in 1912.
Pogradec also played an important role in the Albanian National Resistance between the end of the 19th Century and the beginning of the 20th century before becoming a battlefield between enemy fronts in WWI. During the course of the war, it fell under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian, Serbian, Greek, Bulgarian, and French armies at some point or another. In WWII, it was invaded by the Italians in 1939 until it was occupied by the Greeks between 1940 and 1941. After the Italian capitulation in 1943, the Nazis took hold of the area until it was liberated on the 30th of August 1944 by Albanian partisans.
From what I can see, and like many other parts of Albania, Pogradec is a bit of a paradox- a combination of stunning natural scenery, slightly less appealing urbanism, sites of historical interest, and of course, the bright blue waters of Ohrid, it sure looks like a pretty interesting place to spend a few days.
So what is on my list of things to do in Pogradec? After considerable research online and some recommendations from friends, this is my shortlist.
Lake Ohrid
A trip to Pogradec would not be complete without visiting the lake itself, and as it is one of Europes deepest and oldest lakes, I think it would be quite hard to miss. 30km long and around 288m deep, the lake was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979 and it is arguably the biggest attraction in the area. Stretching between two countries, the lake preserves a truly unique aquatic ecosystem of great global importance and it is considered as one of Europe’s greatest biological reserves. Not only does the lake have great natural importance, but it is also historically significant and by all accounts, astoundingly beautiful. I am looking forward to waking up each morning and drinking a coffee overlooking it.
Drilon
Drilon is the name of the river that flows into Lake Ohrid near Tushemish and mentions of it can be found in ancient texts and historical records. My friend Irina suggested I visit it and as I see it is often called one of the most beautiful parts of Albania, it has to go on my list. Billed as a quiet, tranquil, and naturally beautiful oasis of calm, it sounds like it is just what I am looking for. Boats, restaurants, wildlife, and fresh air-sign me up.
Go to Macedonia
Just a short distance from Pogradec is the border with Macedonia. You can drive, or chance it with public transport, but I am hoping to take this opportunity to hop across to a new country and add another destination to my list. Another friend suggested visiting the Monastery of Saint Naum- an Eastern Orthodox monastery that was founded by the medieval Saunt Naum who founded it. Established at the time of the Bulgarian Empire in 905, it once belonged to Albania during 1912 and 1925 until Zog of Albania gave it to Yugoslavia as a result of negotiations between the two countries.
But what else should I do?
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