As an EU Citizen (until Brexit at least), I have been used to moving from EU country to EU country without any hassle or excessive paperwork. Getting legal residence in Albania was a little trickier. As well as the formalities you need to prepare for, these are some other things I discovered that I think may be of use to anyone moving here.
- Get a criminal record check before you even set foot in the country as regardless of your nationality and the kind of residence permit you will be applying for, you are going to need this. It needs to be no more than three months old and be issued by the police in either your native country, or the previous country of residence but in this case it must be accompanied by either a valid ID residence permit for that country, or a letter from a lawyer saying you have resided there for the specified amount of time. This document will need to be apostilled in the applicable country as a notary stamp is not sufficient.
- As an EU Citizen, once you touch down in Tirana you have three months to apply for residence as failure to do so can result in a hefty fine. You can make the initial application and you will be issued with a temporary residence slip (which you must carry on you at all times) which you then exchange for the final residence slip 30 days later. You do not get a card like in most other countries, it is an A4 piece of paper that you are supposed to carry on you always.
- You will need to get yourself some health insurance. For the most basic cover, you can expect to pay around EUR50 a year. In fact, there is a health insurance provider outside the Immigration Department where you can take a policy on the spot. Healthcare is good in the private hospitals, but if you have a serious injury or require specialist surgeries, make sure your health insurance covers your extraction from the country. Public hospitals do not charge for A&E visits but otherwise, you are responsible for all of your costs which are expected to be paid at the hospital in cash.
- Opening a bank account takes around one hour, but you will need to provide solid proof of where all of your income and any money that you deposit is coming from. If you cannot provide an invoice or a payslip, be warned they will not be able to process your deposit. You may also have to jump through a few hoops to explain what you do for work- as a freelance writer, they were a bit confused and I had to send them links to my published work. I chose Raiffeisen.
- You can drive on your EU driving license although it is recommended you get an International Driving Permit. If you are bringing your own car, you need to have all of your vehicle registration docs as well as a local insurance policy. Driving can be chaotic and people drive on the right. Most of the time anyway.
- When it comes to mobile phone contracts or plans, your only real option is Pay-as-You-Go. I tried T-Mobile but wasn’t happy so instead, I chose Vodafone. I top up with 1200 Leke every four weeks and get pretty much-unlimited internet usage, local calls and messages. If you are with a foreign company, you may be able to wangle a contract but I haven’t heard many success stories.
- If you are renting a property through an agent, they will try and charge you 50% of the first month’s rent but this is always, always negotiable. Also be aware that it is usual procedure to take two months’ deposit plus the first months rent in advance, instead of just the usual, one.
- You will be able to get your hands on most prescription drugs here at lower prices, and usually without a prescription so do not worry if you have a rather complicated prescription, you should be able to get what you need with minimal fuss.
- If you are considering bringing your pet into the country, don’t worry too much about getting caught up at Tirana airport. A pet passport, up to date vaccinations and permission from the airline will mean that you can enter with no issues. When I brought my two cats from Malta, customs did not even ask me to show any documentation at all. I would advise, however, that it is a good idea to not only get them vaccinated against rabies but to get the rabies titre test done whilst you are abroad, as you will need it to take your pets back into the EU. Albanian laboratories are not recognised by EU standards so unless you do it beforehand, the test will have to be sent to Austria to be processed which can be a costly and lengthy process. Save yourself the time and instead make sure that you have ticked all of the boxes beforehand. Also, be warned that your pets will come out on the revolving luggage belt which can be quite amusing!
- When you rent a property, the bills will remain the landlord’s name and you will be expected to pay them at the end of every month. Always ask for a copy of the bill before you part with money though.
- For a one-bedroom flat in the capital of Tirana, you can expect to pay anywhere from EUR250 and around EUR350-EUR400 for a two bedroom apartment. Generally, the properties in Tirana are large and spacious, and most come with balconies. If you are out of the centre, prices will be lower than in the Blloku area for example.
- As far as communication goes- you will be able to get by in Tirana or tourist areas with a mixture of English, Albanian and sign language If you are planning on staying for more than a month or so, it is only polite to learn at least the basics in Albanian as it is not hard and a little effort goes a long way.
- There is a large and active expat community in Tirana- Italian, Hungarian, German, American, and a few Brits- you can join Internations, and IFIT, and keep your eye out for other international events which are plentiful and full of friendly people. But remember, you are a guest in a new country and you should make an effort to get to know Albanians as they are friendly, polite, welcoming, and good fun. They will always want to go for a coffee and will make you feel completely at home.
- Most places in Tirana are walking distance, buses come and go when they please with no set timetable, and taxis are available on pretty much every street. Make sure the driver switches the meter on and don’t pay more than 300L in the town centre, or 500L into the suburbs. Also, don’t be so sure that your driver knows where he is going, you will probably have to explain it, show him a map, and then direct him yourself. Be patient.
- Clothes shopping can be a nightmare. Personally, I love the style here, but it may not be to everyone’s taste. Also if you are above a size L/14 or shoe size 40 then you will struggle to find things that fit you.
- Weather-wise, it is a mixed bag. The winters can be bitterly cold and humid with a lot of rain. Summers are long and hot with temperatures reaching 45 degrees with a very high level of humidity. Be prepared.
- If you have children, there is a huge selection of international schools to choose from, all teaching to an exceptionally high level with English as the predominant language.
- Ideally, you would already have a job offer before you decide to relocate. Salaries in Albania are not like they are in Europe and you should be ready to accept that unless you are working for a foreign company or in a specialised role, you will only take home around EUR200 a month. And no, I didn’t miss a zero off that figure.
- The concept of being self-employed is not particularly common here so you can chance it and confuse the hell out of your accountant or you can open an Albanian company. This is very cheap and you only pay around 8% tax but you will also have to pay maintenance costs for the running of the company and various other fees and taxes at the end of each year.
- If you are shipping belongings into the country, you need to be prepared to present invoices that state the quantity and price of each household and personal item. These will then be subject to duty and tax of up to 20% so be sure you are prepared for this. That said, if you can prove you are only in Albania for x amount of time and will be taking the items out of the country again, then you should be able to avoid paying these duties. Provide a work contract and be prepared to put your foot down- the law is on your side. I brought as much as I could in my suitcases over multiple trips to avoid paying hefty import taxes for my knickers.
- Don’t come here expecting to be able to get all of the products you can at home because you will be disappointed. Whilst you may be able to find some of your home comforts, if you cannot find them all, don’t complain. Instead, embrace yourself in the culture a bit!
- Card machines are not used widely although they are becoming more popular. Always make sure you have at least 5000L on you to pay for things. Also be aware that depending on your bank and your type of card, you could be charged up to 700L for withdrawals from an ATM.
- When it comes to tipping, I wasn’t really sure in the beginning but I stick to this: 10% on food, loose change for drinks/coffee, and nothing for taxi drivers in general. Unless it is my super reliable, friendly taxi driver. If you want his name, get in touch!
- Come to Albania with an open mind, an open heart, and an empty stomach! Leave your preconceptions at the airport and be prepared to discover a fascinating and beautiful country, quite unlike any other.
- MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR EMBASSY IS!
For the Italian speakers amongst us, check out Da Torino a Tirana, a blog on getting to grips with Albania by my friend Anna.
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